The Meatball Shop

You eat em' with pasta. You eat em' on subs. Two questions: when have you had a really good one and when have you had one for a meal? The notion that two young dudes would turn that food group known as the Meatball into a full fledged joint in New York City, specializing in the little round suckers, is a feat that deserves to be recognized if not applauded.

One can tell much about the personality and tone of The Meatball Shop (located on 84 Stanton Street between Allan and Orchard) simply by its hours: Mon-Wed 12 p.m.-2 a.m. & Thur-Sun
12 p.m.-4.a.m. That's right suburban folk...not only is it an eatery that sells primarily nothing but dishes that involves meatballs (except for its homemade ice cream sandwiches, which we will get to), but you can indulge in them at 3 o'clock in the morning if you get that craving after a drunken night out in the club, a rush of the munchies, or other reasons that perhaps you do not wish to disclose at the moment. Whatever the case may be, the owners of the "Shop" were smart in understanding that we young adults NEED ACCEPTABLE LATE NIGHT FOOD; enough diners and taco bell. The idea was fantastic but the main test in the form of a question for the "Shop"...how's your balls?

First off, the place has the right idea aesthetically. Heavy wood and brick accents radiate the feeling of old-style butcher market. On the walls, you can see different types of meat grinders with a mixture of black and white photographs of people you don't know but it all adds to the New York feeling of the place. You can tell the restaurant wants to promote the idea of warmth and a jovial interaction. This is not the type of joint where you escape into a private booth with your love interest...instead, a large, family style table stretches down the middle of the restaurant which immediately encourages customers to let their guard down...no one is a stranger here at The Meatball Shop. The waiting staff was pleasant and wine selection was impressive. On the board above the bar, they list the different types of grapes as the various wines are presented beside it. One can tell, by the simple layout of the shop, it is meant to feel different...meant to feel like an old butcher store yet with an odd homage to Mom's kitchen table. The Belly Busters really give the atmosphere a top notch rating. Staying true to form in the indulgence of the simplistic, you order your food by marking it down with an erasable marker on a plastic laminated menu. The menu is direct...you choose the type of meatball you want (beef, pork, chicken, salmon, weekly special, or veggie) then the sauce (classic tomato, spicy meat, mushroom gravy, Parmesan cheese) and then a side or a green. For sides there were a couple of selections such as mashed potatoes, spaghetti, rigatoni, risotto, and, here's the cool thing, you can choose whether you want it UNDER or to the side of the meatballs. Now, of course, you can order a sandwich with meatballs, but we wanted to try them without the bread interfering.

Above, is what Mike ordered. It was the spicy pork balls with the spicy meat sauce over steamed spinach. Let's end any further speculation...these balls get an F for Fantastic. Truly, the quality of the meatballs comes from the hand-rolled texture and the smooth but flavorful consistency of the meat. It was not overcooked or burnt on the outside, delicate enough to cut with little pressure from your fork. The spinach was equally impressive and not only gave the dish a lovely presentation, but also, a wonderful contrast to the meat. Yet, what's great about the portions is that it represents a very European state of mind. The focus is not on the amount but on HUGE flavor. You finish your dish satisfied but not bloated.

Paul ordered the classic meatballs with the classic tomato over mashed potatoes. Although both meatballs were fantastic, the classic meatballs definitely had more flavor than the pork ones and Belly Busters would definitely recommend getting the CLASSIC MEATBALLS with CLASSIC TOMATO over spinach. Not to say that both dishes weren't excellent, but the classic meat has an edge.

Just when thinking culinary life could not get any better, The Meatball Shop also specializes in homemade ice cream sandwiches. I don't think there is a restaurant Busters has been to that has so successfully tapped into the inner-child of us all with such elegant simplicity. Mike ordered the classic chocolate chip with vanilla ice cream and it delivered. The ice cream was vanilla bean which was very good but perhaps a more creamier flavor would benefit the sandwich. Again, Busters is just nit-picking here...the dessert was absolutely wonderful. The cookies were moist and fresh with nice chocolate chunks baked right into it.

VERDICT: Overall, The Meatball Shop is a must visit if you are in the area...and by area, we mean an hour radius. First off, you won't find a joint like it...Meatballs for your entree and ice cream sandwiches for dessert. There are no appetizers, no pretentious breadbaskets, and you won't have to worry about reviewing the gauntlet of specials in your head. The only thing you have to decide is how to take your balls. That brings us to the second point of the meatballs themselves...they are delicate, beautiful, and most importantly, delicious. Plain and simple, get down to The Meatball Shop for a quick lunch, a lazy dinner, or a late night excursion with your friends and experience it for yourself.

3 1/2 Belly Bustins out of 4


For more info, check out: http://www.meatballshop.com/index.html